Bethany Hamilton

Surfing is so unique and it’s something that no matter what level you are, you can go and have fun. You can pick and choose the waves that you want to surf, so if it is too big and scary, you can wait until it changes and gets more to your level. Every time you go out it’s always different and unique. It’s almost like a place you can just de-stress.

I think sharks are beautiful creatures, and I don’t think we should stop going in the ocean because of them. You drive down the road and you get in an accident, but most people end up driving down the road again. Surfing is you’re going into their home and it’s just a natural part of life.

Surfing is a huge passion of mine. I’m and addict to it in a sense. I think it is a good addiction. I spend about anywhere from two to eight hours a day in the water when I am home. I enjoy competing and traveling. I don’t know, I just like being in the ocean and enjoying God’s creation. Just the adrenaline you get and its good exercise you get at the same time.

I guess my faith in Jesus Christ is what kept me going day by day. I just trusted in him and I believe that he’s the one who gives me the strength and ability to overcome struggles and problems day to day. I’m just grateful for him, as he has blessed me with just an amazing family that has supported me through every step of the way.

[The biggest lesson I’ve got is] Learning to have patience with people, just take it one step at a time in everything that you’re doing and just invest time in the people that you’re with … have patience with them, even if they’re not necessarily the easiest person to work with.